Delta 3D Printer

Delta 3D Printer, Single hotends, Multiple hotends, Multi-colour hotends(printing heads), plastic filament and 3D prints .



How to make your own all metal water cooled hotend for a delta printer

I used the following:-

A stainless steel hypodermic tube (available at Amazon and Mcmaster's) 0.084" ID
Two m6 brass bolts with holes drilled lengthwise
a copper heater block with holes for a 12v/40w stainless steel heater cartridge, a thermistor and for the stainless steel tube and a small hole for a 3 mm bolt to hold the cartridge in the block
a copper tube with a hole drilled through
a 6 mm brass dome nut for the nozzle with a .5 mm hole drilled in.
6 mm copper washer between the dome nut and the heater block

I soldered the heater block to the one brass bolt(head partially filed away) with the stainless steel tube through both, then the copper tube to the stainless tube and then the other bolt that will be used to fasten the hotend to the mounting plate and the bowden tube.

I used silver solder with a 56% silver content with a handy gas flame and stainless steel flux.The inside of the stainless steel tube and all areas that were not supposed to be soldered were covered with milk of magnesia(one can use tippex as well). The Milk of Magnesia not only keeps the silver solder from flowing beyond the joint, but it seems to protect the stainless from getting that hard black coating from being heated.

After cleaning the hotend the tube was polished with a string and brasso to clear the inside of the tube and the heater cartridge and thermistor installed. I used thermal paste on the cartridge.

The heater block insulated on top with cuttlefish bone.

Improvements made

I used a nozzle from the welding industry to replace the bottom brass with copper